My food testing journey

From a $50,000 GFAAS to the Lead Lottery.

I bought the machine. I ran the samples. I burned out in two months and concluded the method itself is wrong for consumer-product testing. Here is what I learned the hard way, and where I am headed next.

If you have read /pages/contested-foods, /pages/lsm-receipts, or /pages/lead-lottery, you have seen me argue that a single ICP-MS result on a packaged food is one batch's snapshot, not a brand verdict, and that the wet-acid-digestion sample-prep method most labs use is a bad fit for consumer-product testing in the first place. Neither of those is a position I started from. I bought the GFAAS in summer 2024 to do this work in-house. Two months in I had learned enough to walk away from the method and rethink the whole approach.

$50,000
Graphite Furnace Atomic Absorption Spectrometer (GFAAS) I bought for in-house food testing
$30,000
Niton XL5 Plus XRF for product / dish / ceramic surface scanning
2,165
dishes XRF-scanned and indexed in our public database
0.5 ppb
GFAAS detection limit for lead — about 1,000× more sensitive than my XRF, 100,000× more sensitive than FluoroSpec

The GFAAS, in retrospect, was a bad call.

Summer 2024. I bought a graphite-furnace atomic absorption spectrometer to do food testing in-house. Two months later I had learned enough about wet-acid digestion to know I had bought the wrong machine for the wrong method.

Eric's Atomic Absorption Spectrometer
My GFAAS. Bought 2024 for in-house food testing. Photo published on the everythinglead.org homepage. Detection limit: 0.5 ppb for lead. About 1,000× more sensitive than the Niton XL5 Plus XRF I was already running for dishes and ceramics, and roughly 100,000× more sensitive than FluoroSpec on the same target.

The reason I bought it was the same reason most people read Lead Safe Mama: I wanted to know what was in the food, specifically. XRF is the wrong tool for that. ICP-MS and GFAAS are the right instruments, but the prep method matters more than the instrument.

The standard prep is wet-acid digestion. You take a food sample, transfer it to a trace-metal-grade vessel, add concentrated nitric acid (around 1,000 dollars per liter for the pharmaceutical-grade version), heat it to break the sample down to a clear digest, then analyze the digest. Sounds clean. It is not. Every step has a contamination vector.

The vessels have to be acid-washed to a level where a fingerprint is a problem. The acid itself, even pharmaceutical grade, has trace lead. The lab air has trace dust, and lead dust is everywhere if your house is older than 1978. A single speck of dust on a 28-gram digest can shift the result from nondetect to a "positive" reading at sub-ppb levels.

And the sample is not homogeneous. A single slice of bread does not have one lead concentration. The lead is concentrated in the crumb edges and the crust, not evenly distributed. To get a defensible number you have to homogenize the whole loaf, weigh out a representative sub-sample, and digest that. Most home-bench operators are not doing this. I was not, at first. The within-bag variation between two pinches from the same loaf was bigger than I expected.

The conclusion you reach is uncomfortable: brand consistency is a marketing claim, not a chemistry one. The number you publish for one bag tells you about that bag. The next bag from the same shelf can be very different. The lab method is fine. The single-sample sampling plan is the structural problem.

What I changed about my own testing.

Three things. They all came out of the same realization.

1. I stopped publishing single-sample results as brand-level claims. A single test is a snapshot of one batch. We say that next to the number now, on every entry, with a confidence tag (FDA Total Diet Study multi-year multi-region is the gold standard; multi-source independent agreement is the next tier; single batch is C; contested with retest disagreement is D). The math at /pages/contested-foods walks the rubric.

2. I shipped sealed retail units to the lab, not opened ones. When I ran my own GFAAS samples I did the same anonymized chain of custody most home-bench programs do. After the cream cheese case (Lead Safe Mama got 120.6 ppb, my own retest of an unopened block came back nondetect) I locked our protocol to factory-sealed-to-the-lab. That eliminates the home-kitchen-dust contamination vector that we suspect drove the 60× cream cheese gap. The reasoning is on /pages/compare.

3. I switched the consumer testing offer to a crowdfunded retest model at the actual lab cost. The Lead Lottery: $100 covers one Purity Labs ICP-MS panel and one sealed retail unit. No admin overhead, no markup, no separate-business surcharge. Same lab Lead Safe Mama uses for her own work since March 2025. The math contrast is on /pages/lead-lottery.

Where I am headed: oxygen combustion.

The right sample prep for consumer-product heavy-metal screening is not wet-acid digestion. It is high-temperature oxygen combustion.

Burn the sample. Capture the effluent gas. Analyze the captured stream. The lead does not go anywhere; it ends up in the trapped condensate or the absorption-train solution, where you can quantify it cleanly. No nitric acid. No acid-washed vessels. No fingerprint problem. You still need to homogenize the sample before you burn it, and you still need a clean burn chamber, but the contamination vectors are far fewer than the wet-prep version.

This is a known method (Wickbold-style combustion, oxygen flask combustion, catalytic combustion variants). It is not what the standard contract-lab pipeline uses for food samples, partly because contract labs are set up for ICP-MS-with-acid-digestion and partly because the sample throughput on combustion rigs is lower. But for consumer-product screening at the price point we want to hit (lab fee under 100 dollars per sample, or under 20 dollars in-house when you have the rig running), combustion is the more defensible approach.

Plan: build the next-generation Lead Lottery test on combustion-prep, not acid-prep. Same instruments downstream (ICP-MS or GFAAS for the quantitation), different front end. Less contamination, less acid cost, less time per sample, and more confidence in the resulting number.

What I run today.

Three instruments and one outside lab, by purpose.

Surface scanning
Niton XL5 Plus XRF

Dishes, ceramics, painted surfaces, toys, cookware. Right tool for solid-surface lead alloys and pigments. Used to scan and index the 2,165 dishes in our public database.

In-house food (when needed)
GFAAS

Graphite Furnace Atomic Absorption Spectrometer. 0.5 ppb detection limit for lead. Used for in-house spot-checks and methodology calibration. Purchased 2024.

Field detection kit
FluoroSpec

Our own fluorescence-spectroscopy reagent. Glows green on contact with lead pigments. The consumer kit, $50 to $75 retail. Reads ppm, not ppb. Right tool for surface-paint detection at home.

Authoritative food panels
Purity Labs ICP-MS

5-metal panel (Pb, Cd, As, Hg, plus one). Same lab Lead Safe Mama uses since March 2025. Sealed retail unit shipped direct, factory seal opened only at the lab. ~$80 per panel for commercial customers.

The archive.

If you want to read or see the GFAAS years, here is where to look.

  • everythinglead.org: my old wiki. The GFAAS photo is on the homepage. The "Food Test Results" section has the food data I ran on the GFAAS, paid for out of pocket, no sponsorship.
  • @EricEverythingLead on Instagram: real-time updates, glow tests, food-result spot checks, and a lot of dishes glowing green under UV. This is where most of the field-testing footage lives.
  • /pages/contested-foods: the cases in our calculator where two samples of the same product disagreed, and what the math says about why.
  • /pages/compare: the longer methodology argument on why XRF is wrong for food, why anonymized chain of custody breaks accreditation, why FDA Total Diet Study is the right comparator.

If you want to nominate a batch for retest, this is the path.

Lead Lottery: $100 chips fund one Purity Labs ICP-MS panel plus one sealed retail unit. Anyone can nominate. Anyone can chip in. Result published side by side with whatever number is currently on record. No anonymization, real packaging, real chain of custody.

The Lead Lottery → Contested test results → LSM food testing audit →
Through every life stage.

Lead exposure isn't a single moment. It's a lifetime.

Lead crosses the placenta during pregnancy, builds in your child's growing bones, sits in the skeleton for decades, and releases back into circulation during menopause and age-related bone resorption. Cutting today's exposure is the only thing that meaningfully changes the lifetime trajectory.

Lifetime lead exposure timeline FETAL CHILD ADULT PARENT SENIOR

Free tools we maintain.

All four are free, no signup. Built and updated by us. Anyone, anytime, in your kitchen or your house or wherever you happen to be.

"Lead is bad" — the primary sources.

Find it. Deal with it. Don't let lead weigh you down.